The opening flashback in the made-for-HBO
film, Warm Springs, sublimely captures
what possibly was Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s primary
motive for pursuing a political career.
On a bright afternoon, the gubernatorial candidate pours
himself and his campaign manager, Louis Howe, each a belt
of brown inside his Manhattan den. Howe asks Roosevelt,
at the time working as Assistant Secretary to the U.S. Navy,
why he’s so set on running on the Democratic ticket.
Roosevelt replies, “The Democratic Party is the party
of the people. I’m a man of the people.”
“You’re a Roosevelt,” Howe contemptuously returns. “What
do you know about people?”
The privileged young man keeps his trap shut and lifts his
beveled rocks glass to his lips. He gives no answer, only
a smile, as he takes his first sip.
There are the obvious reasons why contemporary historians
would argue FDR as the greatest president in the history
of the United States: he put the kibosh on the Great Depression
with his New Deal program. His “arsenal of democracy” prevailed
over Nazi Germany. He restructured the federal government
to where it protected the little guy instead of Big Business.
Yet Roosevelt had accomplished an even greater feat. He
made the most sensible, heroic, and utterly compassionate
executive decision ever by anyone who resided at 1600 Pennsylvania
Avenue.
He repealed Prohibition.
It wasn’t easy for the New York native. The goody-goody
Temperance Movement of the 1910s had gained far too much
momentum in Congress, and the 18th Amendment had passed
with ease through both houses over the 1917 holidays. Despite
Woodrow Wilson’s veto attempt, the bill was ratified
two years later. The Volstead Act shortly followed, enabling
police enforcement of this unprecedented travesty. This
resulted in many cases of police abuse and civil rights
violations during any number of speakeasy raids.
The religious right had an unprecedented stronghold in the
political arena, piously implicating the drink for inner-city
crime, home-wrecking, the abuse of women, you name it. No
commander-in-chief would dare stand up against this conservative
platform supported by the Anti-Saloon League and William
Jennings Bryan’s Jesus-freaked politicos, two constituencies
vital for anyone’s stay in federal politics. This
dastardly Temperance dominated Capitol Hill for far too
long, more than 15 years.
Wilson may have pussy-footed around the Prohibition issue
to appease voters, but some presidents were just flat-out
too wrapped up in their own party — and I don’t
mean partisanship. Think of Wilson’s successor, Warren
G. Harding, as Simpsons’ tyrant Montgomery
Burns, but with a fully-stocked sidebar. An advocate for
big business who had voted for Prohibition when
in the Senate, Harding lined his own pockets — and
liver — without giving a damn for the public’s
empty liquor cabinets.
When he was elected to the Oval Office in 1920, he swilled
behind closed doors as if he’d never heard the word “hypocrisy” before.
Meanwhile, the rest of the country was going out of its
way to sneak a measly flask of hooch home to the family.
Herbert Hoover toyed with the notion of Repeal, but what
with the 1929 Stock Market Crash, the highly criticized
Republican couldn’t get to it. Annual alcohol consumption
had taken a nosedive to less than a gallon per person. People
were starving in the streets and dying of thirst, avoiding
the local speakeasies for fear of police brutality. By this
point, a real political hero was needed to put bread and booze
in the mouths of 13 million unemployed Americans.
Enter Franklin D. Roosevelt. He didn’t exactly step
into office in 1933 with an empty plate. Fascism was on
the rise in Europe, economic catastrophes had browbeaten
the nation for five years, but the new president made it
a top priority to see that, first and foremost, the Everyman
could get his hands on the liquid happiness — legally.

Five days after his inauguration, the
former New York governor had Congress convene in a special
session to re-legalize beer. By now a good number of political
outfits were pushing for Prohibition’s repeal exclusively for its boost
to the economy and tax revenues. The academic community, “wet
intellectuals” as they were popularly known, believed
that hooch would benefit medical studies. (Dr. Samuel Harden
Church, President of the Carnegie Institute of Technology
in Pittsburgh, praised liquor as “one of the greatest
blessings that God has given to men out of the teeming bosom
of Mother Earth.”)
Neither faction, though, took the working-class American
to heart. It was Roosevelt who had his parched fellow man
in his best interest. Repeal was the essential pillar to
his 1932 presidential campaign, and when the 51-year old
moved into The White House, he kept his word. With FDR leading
the way, Congress amicably passed the 21st Amendment. On
December 5, 1933, at 6:55 p.m., when Roosevelt’s signature
ratified the Twenty-First Amendment, he said, “I believe
this would be a good time for a beer.”
And freedom reigned. “The country is deluged,” one
scholar accounted. “Barrel-houses have consequently
sprung up all over the state. Millions of jugs are in daily
use, women ordering for the home. Cars drive up and put
their filled jug in the rumble-seat. Long distance beer
trucks cross and re-cross the country with huge trailers,
running from a Pueblo, Colorado brewery to points between
Dallas, Texas, and South Dakota.”
In Chicago, nightlife had “a host of new evils,” according
to the Juvenile Protective Association, including the exploitation
of women. No, not Jell-O wrestling contests but “girl
hostesses” who rubbed elbows with the patrons and
enabled them to empty their pocketbooks. The JPA claimed
that “parents are having to prosecute proprietors
of school-supply and lunch rooms for selling liquor to their
children.” Clearly Chi-Town’s party was off
the chain.
Speaking of freed shackles, on the first anniversary of
Repeal, Schenley Distillers Corporation held a publicity
stunt at their Delaware plant where a lager-goggled fellow
shattered the links from four million beer kegs. A few years
later The New York Times reported that “brewers
have even gone so far as to introduce into the House of
Representatives a bill to legalize curb-selling of beer
to motorists on the streets of the nation’s capital.” It
was as if the president had unlocked the gates to paradise.
As much as we’d like to believe that FDR was an utterly
selfless, a man who unleashed the keggers that, to this
day, pervade on campus, in the taverns, and in our homes,
public outcry wasn’t the sole reason for his push
for the 21st Amendment. Roosevelt enjoyed the drink on a
very personal level.

“Before dinner we usually had martini cocktails
made by the President’s own hands,” recalled
cabinet member, Robert H. Jackson, in the 2003 biography That
Man: An Insider’s Portrait of Franklin D. Roosevelt, “but
any impression that the President was given to any considerable
amount of drinking … is a mistake. I never knew him
to take more than a couple of cocktails, nor did he want
anyone about him who drank to excess. He aimed for two cocktails
before dinner and then perhaps a smidgen afterward.”
Jackson is, of course, applying a bit of whitewash. Other
legacy-conscious Roosevelt insiders have claimed that FDR’s
poker games cut off shortly after 10 p.m., and that the
president was satisfied with only two or three cocktails.
A rather famous one-liner of his circulates among Roosevelt
biographers. In response to his wife’s paranoia about “drinking
and fast driving,” he once told his teenagers that “a
gentleman learns his capacity and tries not to exceed it.
If he must drink to excess, he does so when he has no call
to be in touch with anyone else.”
Being President, however, meant not owning many moments
when he had “no call to be in touch with anyone else,” so
one cannot blame him for often exempting himself from the
rule.
His family would vacation at their summer home on Campobello
Island, where Roosevelt would frequently go boating and
fishing (read: getting blasted away from the camera’s
critical eye). At the risk of being distasteful, I must
say that, although FDR was hobbled by polio, his disease
wasn’t the sole reason he used his wheelchair.
During WWII, when the presidential work week was up, FDR
would retreat to his Hyde Park mansion in New York and invite
Hollywood luminaries, as well as other lefty weekend warriors.
You couldn’t talk about the war or politics at the
party; you just had to endure FDR’s eccentric bartending
skills.
His “Haitian libation” consisted of dark rum,
brown sugar, orange juice, and an egg white, shaken in a
frosted tumbler — a concoction he developed “for
women companions,” according to his son Elliott, “when
he wanted them to feel frivolous.” A variety of recipes
for his Plymouth brand martinis have been documented, all
in a rather disapproving context. Some fellow drinkers didn’t
like the combined garnish of olives and lemon peels, others
would dismiss his choice of fruit juices, but the most common
criticism? Toomuch vermouth.
His kinfolk would pressure him into using different gin-vermouth
ratios: his son, Jimmy suggested a 3-to-1; Elliot pushed
for 4-to-1; Johnny advocated a stout 6-to-1.
“They were not that strong,” FDR’s grandson, Curtis, told
The History Channel earlier this year. “He’d throw in a little gin
at the end … He’d also put in two or three drops of absinthe, changing
the taste of a martini to where many people — and this is recorded — say ‘The
president made the worst martinis I’ve ever tasted.’”
Roosevelt must have liked them fine, however. The president
was oftentimes carried off to his White House bedroom by
Secret Service men while he chanted college fight songs.
Roosevelt got loaded enough in office that he has earned
a place among the martini culture’s greatest fictitious
and historical luminaries, alongside plastered playboys
Frank Sinatra, James Bond, and Nick Charles.

Getting elected to office four consecutive times is one
thing, but Roosevelt’s ability to balance his hedonistic
and domestic lifestyles will keep heads scratching for centuries.
He smoked a pack of cigarettes a day, right up until his
disease took a turn for the worse. He philandered, notably
with his wife’s assistant, Lucy Mercer. Getting plowed
was also a regular pastime. (His children remember, during
one particular Hyde Park get-together, dear old dad having
a snootful and stumbling over their feet and crashing onto
the hardwood floor.) The fact that Roosevelt kept all this
in check while sustaining a filial bond with Eleanor, well,
that alone shows the degree of this diplomat’s charisma.
When Eleanor was a child, her two uncles were such sloshes
that the family couldn’t risk having company over
to the house. This stuck to the better half’s bones
badly enough that she never touched the stuff. In the 1920s,
when her feminist activism blossomed, she preached about
drinking responsibilities concerning young girls — not
exactly the type of discourse that FDR would indulge in
during what he called his “favorite hour of the day,” but
at least her public service kept the future first lady out
of the house long enough for a couple stiff ones.
FDR liked to say that a nip here and there helped his back
pain, but that didn’t stop Mama Roosevelt from ragging
on her son’s drinking. A puritan like Eleanor, Sara
once snatched the President’s beaker out of his hand,
teasingly wet her whistle with it, and asked, “Now,
Franklin, haven’t you had enough of your cocktails?” He
conducted all his future sloshing sessions in the study,
where women were not welcome.
What Sara and Eleanor did not realize was the way in which
the bottle assisted the president on the job, specifically
in foreign policy. In 1938, when King George and Queen Elizabeth
paid a visit to the States, FDR had a cocktail shaker chilled
and waiting in the library. The distinguished gent clinked
glasses with the old King and enjoyed a thoughtful drink.
Three years before the U.S. entered the war, and the cunning
Roosevelt was already brewing friendship with the English.
When British Prime Minister Winston Churchill visited the
White House for two to three weeks at a time during World
War II, the English Bulldog would pull all-nighters accompanied
by snifters of brandy and hefty cigars. The president ruggedly
engaged in the Brit’s benders, or what the White House
staffers called keeping “Winston Hours.” It
was noted that, afterward, FDR slept for 10 hours a night,
three days in a row to recuperate.
His preference for chilled rocket fuel was well-known, but
FDR bathed in more than just the martini. He was also known
to indulge in Old-Fashioneds mixed by his son, Elliot, and
occasional glasses of wine.
He practically double-fisted vodkas and Russian champagne
overseas with Joseph Stalin and Churchill. (Elliot in later
years remembered his father telling him about the “three
hundred and sixty-five toasts, one for every day in the
year” during the famous Tehran Conference.) FDR even
remarked to the Soviet leader that he wanted to market in
America the particular varieties of bubbly they were knocking
back. And there is, of course, the legendary episode in
which Roosevelt turned the dour Soviet leader on to that
great gift of democracy, the martini. Stalin politely finished
his and said, “Well, all right, but it is cold on
the stomach.” This amounted to the only weakness that
Stalin would show during the conference. Latter-day Soviet
Premier Nikita Khrushchev would elaborate, declaring the
martini “America’s lethal weapon.”
It’s plain to see that Roosevelt’s boozing played
an intrinsic part ininternational diplomacy and, ultimately,
in liberating the Western World from totalitarianism. No
wonder there’s a joint called The Roosevelt Bar in
Munich.

Happy hour wasn’t exclusive to the Big Three. FDR’s
Secretary of State, George Marshall, had an awfully reliable
remedy for wartime anxiety. “I spend all my days trying
to sort out disputes between the Air Force, the Army, and
the Navy, between the British, the French, and the Americans,” said
Marshall. “It’s only at the end of the day when
I go home and fix my first highball that I remember I’m
fighting the Germans and the Japanese.”
FDR’s love for the bottle proliferated throughout
his entire administration. After Repeal went into full force,
Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes invested in rum distilleries
on the Virgin Islands. The Secretary of Agriculture helped
fund a Florida distillery for brandies made from oranges
and grapefruit. The Distillers and Brewers Corporation,
headed up by former bootleggers, was in cahoots with FDR’s
son-in-law, Curtis Dall. Sonny boy Elliot kept the Roosevelt
tradition going when, in the 1960s, he fought a Congressional
bill which would have banned liquor advertisements from
the airwaves.
FDR’s move toward a drunker America instilled a swaggering
patriotism and slurring harmony between the underworld and
the business community. Organized crime moved on to more
legit rackets, mainly gambling. Alcohol sales generated
billions of state and federal tax dollars almost immediately
after the 21st Amendment passed, undeniably a large contribution
to what became the U.S. economy’s fastest growth rates
in history. The Repeal critics didn’t stand a chance.
Dry economists argued that the schleppers’ weekly
paychecks were spent on beer and whiskey instead of tangible
items more beneficial to the job market, e.g. shoes and
apparel. Purchases like these would have, theoretically,
created more jobs in factories and retail, but are not bartending
and wheat-mashing respectable lines of work as well?
This same crowd of prudes claimed that the reintroduction
of booze oversaturated the refreshment market. True, soda
pop sales plummeted for months after Repeal, but no egghead’s
spreadsheet can supersede the fact that, during hard times,
nothing enhances the fare at a soup kitchen better than
a frosty pint of beer. FDR knew that, and, thus, he restored
faith in America among the dry and the impoverished.
FDR died from a brain hemorrhage on April 12, 1945. At the
funeral site the following year, drinking buddy Churchill
said that “meeting Roosevelt was like uncorking your
first bottle of champagne.”
Unfortunately, when the lights went out for the 32nd president,
the party at the White House was over. The country didn’t
exactly go dry; it just went straight, and the subsequent
commanders-in-chief weren’t cocktail kings. Not like
FDR, anyway.
Harry Truman was a bourbon man, but kept his drinking well
out of sight. Dwight Eisenhower, known more for juvenile
pranks pulled in military school than — gasp! — downing
some firewater, disbanded the hipster urban drinking scene
by inoculating the country into a suburbanized culture replete
with cookies, milk, and Donna Reed. Richard Nixon
loved his 7-to-1 dry martinis, but no one wanted to drink
with him.
It took more than 15 years for another party animal to move
into the White House. Since honorary Rat Packer JFK, we’ve
had perhaps one other president (Slick Willy) who truly
appreciated the going-down-smoothness of top-shelf hooch.
But as far as the 20th Century goes, FDR is the tops, for
without his legislative tact in 1933, our lips wouldn’t
even know the taste of a $2 well.
—Brian Abrams